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{170}{284}Visit www.mvgroup.org
{640}{777}Human beings venture into the highest |parts of our planet at their peril.
{791}{862}Some might think that |by climbing a great mountain
{864}{908}they have somehow conquered it,
{918}{995}but we can only be visitors here.
{1054}{1156}This is a frozen alien world.
{1435}{1495}This is the other extreme -
{1497}{1596}one of the lowest hottest places |on Earth.
{1756}{1850}It's over a hundred metres |below the level of the sea.
{1853}{1933}But here a mountain is in gestation.
{1936}{2008}Pools of sulphuric acid are indications
{2010}{2126}that deep underground |there are titanic stirrings.
{2260}{2344}This is the Danakil Depression |in Ethiopia,
{2347}{2419}lying within a colossal rent |of the earth's surface
{2421}{2518}where giant land masses |are pulling away from one another.
{2580}{2677}Lava rises to the surface |through this crack in the crust
{2679}{2750}creating a chain of young volcanoes.
{3038}{3090}This one, Erta Ale,
{3092}{3213}is today the longest continually |erupting volcano on the planet,
{3215}{3331}a lake of lava that has been |molten for over a hundred years.
{3602}{3773}These same volcanic forces |also created Ethiopia's highlands.
{3918}{3966}70 million years ago
{3968}{4039}this land was just as flat and as deep
{4041}{4089}as the Danakil Depression.
{4144}{4223}Molten lava rising |from the earth's core
{4225}{4333}forced up a huge dome |of rock 500 miles wide,
{4333}{4384}the roof of Africa.
{4544}{4627}Over millennia, |rain and ice carved the rock
{4629}{4708}into a landscape |of spires and canyons.
{4872}{4933}These summits, nearly 3 miles up,
{4935}{5038}are home to some very |remarkable mountaineers -
{5046}{5103}Gelada baboons.
{5105}{5201}They are unique |to the highlands of Ethiopia.
{5538}{5636}The cliffs where they sleep |are for expert climbers only,
{5638}{5706}and Gelado certainly have |the right equipment.
{5708}{5762}the strongest fingers |of any primate
{5764}{5832}and an utterly fearless disposition.
{5902}{6003}But you need more than a head |for heights to survive up here.
{6006}{6143}A day in a Gelado's life reveals |how they've risen to the challenge.
{6462}{6547}For all monkeys morning is grooming time,
{6550}{6622}a chance to catch up with friends.
{6636}{6684}But, unlike other monkeys,
{6687}{6770}Gelados chatter constantly |while they do it.
{6811}{6907}It's a great way to network |while your hands are busy.
{6922}{7009}But these socials can't go on |for too long.
{7011}{7075}Gelados have a busy daily schedule
{7077}{7121}and there's work to be done.
{7228}{7289}Most monkeys couldn't live up here.
{7291}{7357}There's no food |and few insects to feed on.
{7360}{7403}But Gelados are unique -
{7406}{7525}they're the only monkeys in the world |that live almost entirely on grass.
{7797}{7891}They live in the largest assemblies |formed by any monkeys.
{7893}{7947}Some groups are 800 strong
{7949}{8045}and they crop the high meadows |like herds of wildebeest.
{8348}{8430}The Gelados graze |alongside Walia ibex,
{8432}{8505}which are also unique |to these highlands.
{8605}{8676}These rare creatures |are usually very shy
{8679}{8774}but they drop their guard |when the Gelados are around.
{8872}{8954}You might expect that grazers |would avoid each other's patch
{8957}{9063}but this is a special alliance |from which both partners benefit.
{9082}{9148}It's not so risky |to put your head down
{9151}{9200}if others are on the lookout.
{9252}{9300}Ethiopian wolves -
{9302}{9380}they won't attempt an attack |in broad daylight.
{9478}{9593}But at dusk the plateau becomes |a more dangerous place.
{9670}{9721}With the grazing largely over
{9725}{9842}there's a last chance to socialise |before returning to the sleeping cliffs.
{10300}{10395}An early warning system |puts everyone on the alert.
{11658}{11774}Their day ends as it began, |safe on the steep cliffs.
{11960}{12030}The Ethiopian volcanoes are dormant,
{12032}{12127}but elsewhere others still rage.
{12438}{12557}Volcanoes form the backbone |of the longest mountain chain on our planet -
{12559}{12616}the Andes of South America.
{12645}{12816}This vast range stretches 5,000 miles |from the Equator down to the Antarctic.
{12850}{12916}It formed as the floor of the Pacific Ocean
{12918}{13030}slid beneath the South American |continent, buckling its edge.
{13305}{13421}At the southern end |stand the mountains of Patagonia.
{13473}{13512}It's high summer,
{13645}{13757}but the Andes have the most |unstable mountain weather on the planet
{13759}{13838}and storms can erupt without warning.
{13876}{13908}Temperatures plummet
{13910}{14038}and guanacos and their newborn young |must suddenly endure a blizzard.
{14364}{14453}Truly, all seasons in one day...
{14744}{14770}A puma -
{14773}{14828}the lion of the Andes.
{14982}{15078}Pumas are usually solitary and secretive.
{15080}{15218}To see a group walking boldly |in the open is extremely rare.
{15486}{15584}It's a family - |a mother with four cubs.
{15590}{15653}She has just one brief summer
{15656}{15752}in which to teach them |their mountain survival techniques.
{16065}{16185}Rearing four cubs to this age |is an exceptional feat,
{16187}{16245}but she does have |an excellent territory,
{16248}{16305}rich in food and water.
{16392}{16456}Although the cubs are now |as large as their mother,
{16459}{16529}they still rely |on her for their food.
{18562}{18702}It will be another year |before the cubs can hunt for themselves.
{18964}{19035}Without their mother's |skill and experience
{19038}{19105}they would never survive |their first winter.
{19598}{19664}Battered by hurricane force winds,
{19667}{19739}these slopes are now lifeless.
{19818}{19906}Further north, |they hold other dangers.
{20660}{20738}Moving at 250 miles an hour,
{20740}{20833}an avalanche destroys |everything in its path.
{21327}{21377}In the American Rockies
{21379}{21497}a 100,000 avalanches devastate |the slopes every winter.
{21571}{21681}This huge mountain chain |continues the great spine
{21683}{21769}that runs from Patagonia to Alaska.
{22222}{22295}The slopes of the Rockies, |bleak though they are,
{22297}{22390}provide a winter refuge |for some animals.
{22456}{22523}A mother grizzly emerges |from her den
{22526}{22605}after six months' |dozing underground.
{22608}{22649}Her two cubs follow her
{22652}{22738}and take their first steps |in the outside world.
{23080}{23165}These steep slopes provide |a sanctuary for the cubs.
{23168}{23255}A male bear would kill |and eat them given the chance.
{23267}{23346}But big animals find it difficult |to get about here.
{23349}{23413}Males may be twice |the size of a female
{23416}{23471}and even she |can have problems.
{23820}{23908}Her cubs, however, |make light of the snow
{23910}{23956}and of life in general.
{24285}{24348}But the mother faces a dilemma:
{24350}{24418}it's six months |since she last fed
{24420}{24491}and her milk is starting |to run dry.
{24501}{24580}She must soon leave the safety |of these nursery slopes
{24582}{24651}and lead her cubs away |from the mountain.
{24663}{24785}If she delays, |the whole family will risk starvation.
{25449}{25554}Summer reveals the true nature |of the Rockies.
{25752}{25790}Stripped of snow,
{25793}{25881}the peaks bear their sculpted forms.
{25948}{26051}Only now can mountaineers |reclaim the upper reaches.
{26795}{26945}Two miles up the crumbling precipices |seem devoid of life.
{27175}{27254}But there are animals here -
{27720}{27764}a grizzly bear.
{27767}{27884}It seems to be an odd creature |to find on these high rocky slopes.
{27965}{28057}It's hard to imagine |what could have attracted it here.
{28430}{28547}At this time of the year |bears should be fattening up for the winter.
{28549}{28670}Yet they gather in some numbers |on these apparently barren slopes.
{28965}{29063}They're searching |for a rather unusual food -
{29101}{29132}moths.
{29136}{29221}Millions have flown up here |to escape the heat of the lowlands
{29223}{29289}and they're now roosting |among the rocks.
{29367}{29449}Moths may seem |a meager meal for a bear,
{29452}{29496}but their bodies are rich in fat
{29498}{29611}and can make all the difference |in a bear's annual struggle for survival.
{29690}{29755}Another battle is being waged here
{29757}{29828}but on a much longer timescale.
{29830}{29937}These loose boulders are |the mountain's crumbling bones.
{29939}{29993}The Rockies are no longer rising
{29997}{30063}but slowly disintegrating.
{30180}{30338}All mountains everywhere are being |worn down by frost, snow and ice.
{30483}{30573}The Alps were raised |some 15 million years ago
{30575}{30704}as Africa, drifting northwards, |collided with the southern edge of Europe.
{30842}{30942}These spires are the eroded |remains of an ancient seabed
{30944}{31036}that once stretched |between the two continents.
{31445}{31537}But these are just |the Alpine foothills.
{31540}{31642}The range at its centre |rises to 3 miles high
{31645}{31730}and is crowned |with permanent snows.
{32050}{32079}The Matterhorn,
{32081}{32171}its summit too steep |to hold a snow field.
{32381}{32485}Mont Blanc - the highest peak |in Western Europe.
{32802}{32882}The distinctive jagged shapes |of the Alps
{32885}{32968}were carved |by those great mountain sculptors -
{32971}{33010}the glaciers.
{33156}{33221}Immense rivers of moving ice,
{33223}{33256}laden with rock,
{33258}{33316}grind their way |down the mountains,
{33318}{33385}gouging out deep valleys.
{33542}{33656}They're the most powerful erosive force |on our planet.
{33850}{33946}A moulin - a shaft in the ice |opened by melt water
{33948}{34032}as it plunges |into the depths of the glacier.
{34410}{34449}Like the water running through it,
{34451}{34515}the ice itself is constantly moving,
{34517}{34607}flowing down the valley |with unstoppable force.
{35065}{35128}Alpine glaciers may seem immense,
{35130}{35199}but they're dwarfed by those in the great ranges
{35201}{35284}that divide the Indian |subcontinent from Tibet.
{35392}{35457}This is the boulder strewn snout
{35459}{35600}of the giant Baltoro glacier |in the Karakoram mountains of Pakistan.
{35821}{35897}It's the biggest mountain glacier |on Earth -
{35899}{35995}43 miles long and over 3 miles wide.
{35998}{36082}This huge ice-filled valley |is so large
{36084}{36146}it's clearly visible from space.
{36704}{36814}This is the greatest concentration |of peaks over 5 miles high
{36816}{36881}to be found anywhere on Earth.
{36952}{37030}They're the most |dangerous mountains of all.
{37032}{37177}K2 and her sister peaks |have claimed more lives than any others.
{37453}{37530}The peaks here rise so precipitously,
{37532}{37598}the glaciers are so steep and crevassed
{37600}{37725}that few except the most skilled |mountaineers can penetrate these ranges.
{37809}{37895}Markhor gather |for their annual rut.
{38200}{38273}Males must fight |for the right to breed,
{38275}{38395}but on these sheer cliffs |any slip by either animal could be fatal.
{38672}{38703}A snow leopard -
{38706}{38767}the rarest of Himalayan animals.
{38794}{38871}It's a female returning to her lair.
{39134}{39283}These are the first intimate images |of snow leopard ever filmed in the wild.
{39520}{39594}She greets her one year old cub.
{39700}{39756}Her den is well chosen.
{39759}{39852}It has exceptional views |of the surrounding cliffs.
{39932}{39985}On these treacherous slopes
{39987}{40049}no hunter other |than the snow leopard
{40051}{40134}would have a chance |of catching such fragile prey.
{40306}{40394}A female with young |makes an easier target.
{40857}{40932}Her large paws give |an excellent grip
{40934}{41019}and that long tail |helps her balance.
{41241}{41356}Silently she positions herself |above her prey.
{42859}{42935}She returns with nothing.
{43680}{43820}Golden eagles patrol these cliffs |in search of the weak or injured.
{44310}{44363}With a 2 metre wing span
{44365}{44444}this bird could easily |take a young markhor.
{44537}{44581}Eagles hunt by sight
{44584}{44689}and the thickening veil |of snow forces them to give up.
{45076}{45150}For the leopard |the snow provides cover
{45152}{45209}and creates an opportunity.
{45654}{45752}The worsening weather dampens |the sound of her approach
{45755}{45853}allowing her to get |within striking distance.
{46271}{46320}It was an act of desperation
{46322}{46390}to try and catch such a large animal.
{46619}{46668}Wolves have made a kill
{46671}{46759}giving other hunters |a chance to scavenge.
{47148}{47238}The worst of the blizzard brings |success for the snow leopard,
{47241}{47306}but having descended so far |to make the kill
{47309}{47408}she has a grueling climb |to get back to her lair.
{47750}{47800}The cub must be patient.
{47803}{47867}It'll be a year |before it has the strength and skill
{47870}{47967}to kill for itself |on these difficult slopes.
{48570}{48659}The snow leopard is |an almost mythical creature,
{48661}{48705}an icon of the wilderness,
{48707}{48783}an animal few humans |have ever glimpsed
{48785}{48870}for its world is |one we seldom visit.
{49063}{49142}The Karakoram lie |at the western end of a range
{49144}{49242}that stretches |across a tenth of our planet -
{49250}{49300}the Himalayas.
{49542}{49613}These, the highest mountains |of the world,
{49615}{49665}like other great ranges,
{49667}{49764}were created by the collision |of continents.
{49793}{49851}Some 50 million years ago
{49853}{49902}India collided with Tibet
{49905}{50017}thrusting up these immense peaks, |which are still rising.
{50143}{50226}This vast barrier |of rock and ice
{50229}{50332}is so colossal |it shapes the world's climate.
{50370}{50444}Warm winds from India, |full of moisture,
{50446}{50505}are forced upwards |by the Himalayas.
{50508}{50570}As the air rises so it cools,
{50572}{50623}causing clouds to form
{50625}{50689}and the monsoon is born.
{51616}{51730}At high altitudes |the monsoon rains fall as snow.
{51750}{51832}Here, at the far eastern end |of the range in China,
{51834}{51956}one inhabitant endures |the bitter winters out in the open.
{52131}{52231}Most other bears would be |sleeping underground by now,
{52234}{52353}but the giant panda can't |fatten up enough to hibernate.
{52416}{52517}Its food, bamboo, on which it totally relies
{52519}{52589}has so little nutritional value
{52591}{52692}that it can't build up |a store of fat like other bears.
{52721}{52839}Most of the creatures here move up or down |the slopes with the seasons
{52841}{52914}but the panda is held |captive by its diet
{52916}{53034}for the kind of bamboo it eats |only grows at this altitude.
{53205}{53341}But these forests hold |fewer challenges for the more mobile.
{53407}{53571}The golden snap-nosed monkey, |like the giant panda, lives only in China.
{53621}{53749}Their thick fur allows them to survive |at greater altitudes than any other monkey
{53751}{53869}and when the cold bites |they have these upper slopes to themselves.
{54054}{54102}Even if you have a warm coat
{54104}{54220}it apparently helps to surround yourself |with as many layers as possible.
{54271}{54330}But at least these monkeys |have a choice -
{54332}{54414}if they tire of tree bark |and other survival food
{54417}{54499}they can always descend |to lower warmer altitudes
{54501}{54555}and not return there till spring.
{54663}{54715}As the snows retreat
{54718}{54779}trees come into bloom.
{54926}{54959}Cherry blossom.
{55035}{55069}Rhododendrons -
{55071}{55154}here in their natural home |they form great forests
{55156}{55248}and fill the landscape |with the covers of a new season.
{55722}{55864}These forests are a host |to a rich variety of springtime migrants.
{56220}{56304}Beneath the blooms - another display.
{56380}{56462}It's the mating season |for oriental pheasants,
{56465}{56509}Himalayan monal,
{56602}{56638}tragopan
{56641}{56686}and blood pheasant.
{56887}{57009}Musk deer make the most |of a short flash of spring foods.
{57051}{57141}This male smells a potential mate.
{57515}{57604}The red panda, |rarely glimpsed in the wild.
{57606}{57665}It was once considered |a kind of raccoon,
{57667}{57750}but is now believed |to be a small mountain bear.
{58018}{58181}By midsummer its larger, more famous |relative, has retreated into a cave.
{58515}{58650}A giant panda nurses |a tiny week old baby.
{58808}{58906}Her tender cleaning |wards off infection.
{59185}{59281}She won't leave this cave |for three weeks,
{59325}{59419}not while her cub |is so utterly helpless.
{59643}{59683}Progress is slow
{59686}{59816}for milk produced on a diet |of bamboo is wretchedly poor.
{59981}{60019}Four weeks old
{60022}{60084}and the cub is still blind.
{60285}{60427}Its eyes do not fully open |until three months after birth,
{60430}{60548}but the chances of the cub |reaching adulthood are slim.
{60651}{60742}The struggle of a giant panda |mother to raise her cub
{60745}{60890}is a touching symbol of the precariousness |of life in the mountains.
{61134}{61205}On the highest summits |of our planet
{61208}{61271}nothing can live permanently.
{61381}{61422}The highest peak of all,
{61424}{61523}Mount Everest, five and a half |miles above sea level
{61525}{61626}and still rising - |the roof of our world.
{61665}{61733}Of those humans who've tried to climb it
{61735}{61809}one in ten have lost their lives.
{61813}{61953}Those that succeed can stand |for only a few moments on its summit.
{61956}{62102}The Nepalese call it 'a mountain |so high no bird can fly above it.'
{62263}{62380}But each year |over 50,000 demoiselle cranes
{62382}{62489}set out on one of the most |challenging migrations on Earth.
{62542}{62624}To reach their overwintering |grounds in India
{62627}{62701}they must cross the Himalayas.
{62865}{62970}By late morning ferocious winds |are roaring past the peaks.
{62973}{63080}The cranes must gain height |to avoid the building storm.
{63790}{63861}They've hit serious turbulence.
{63973}{64014}They must turn back
{64017}{64064}or risk death.
{64914}{64951}A new day
{64954}{65013}and a new opportunity.
{65040}{65146}The flock stay in close contact |by calling one another.
{65373}{65428}Weak from lack of food and water,
{65430}{65552}they use thermals, rising columns |of warm air, to gain height.
{65975}{66099}For many this is their first journey |across the Himalayas.
{66102}{66182}For some, it will be their last.
{66390}{66472}The golden eagles |have been expecting them.
{66732}{66865}The eagles work in pairs |to separate a young crane from the flock.
{67981}{68040}It escapes the touches of one,
{68044}{68092}and is caught by another.
{68168}{68254}But even a young crane |is a heavy prize
{68257}{68350}and the eagle has |to struggle to control it.
{68814}{68862}The mother can wait no longer -
{68864}{68964}this is a desperate race |against worsening weather.
{69122}{69192}The rest of the flock |battle on.
{69295}{69432}In the ascent every wing beat |becomes an exhausting struggle.
{69880}{70020}At last they are over the highest |barrier that lies in their way.
{70197}{70295}But like all who visit |the world of the high mountains
{70298}{70352}they dare not linger.
{70367}{70467}Visit www.mvgroup.org |Written & synchr. by m06166






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